July 2006


Well, not exactly.  We are moving along having our timing circuit finished according to the plans I’ve gotten off of Dave from the Internet.  He claims the circuit is the circuit based on Stanley Myers patent but I really don’t see much of anything to impress me.

The POTS seem to only shut down my already small current and only moderately add to the amount of gas created.  I’ve got video of both straight DC as well as with the timing circuit in place, and I think you will see a little better performance out of the circuit.

I think with the timing circuit in place I do get a very little amount of increase production but not enough to write home about.  You also get a curious flow to the water surface bubbles that you don’t see with straight DC current.  Maybe some of you guys can explain what thats all about.

So I need for anyone with a little electrical knowledge to take a look at what I’ve done to make sure there isn’t something obviously wrong with my layout.  I am teaching myself the electronics as I go, as I’m sure many of you can tell, but working by myself makes it a little tough to get through certain things.  I have checked my circuit 10 times however, and am pretty certain that while not beautiful, it is correct.

One last note:  This video is around 70mb so if you have dialup you might not want to try to view it.  I apologize for the size but want to make sure people can accurately see these tests over just throwing stuff up that is of bad quality.

Here is a link to the video. Test 16 

Well, so far I have tried cycling the plates in water and leaving in KOH in order to try to get this white build-up that everyone has been talking about.  The only time I’ve seen anything like what they describe is when I’ve put the plates in KOH and then removed them to dry over a few days.  They get a white crusty covering that I’ve always just thought was KOH that dried on the SS and it also forms insde the canister if you allow it to dry.

I’m going to let the plates dry for a day or so now and see if I get a build-up then.  If so we’ll put back into the water and see what kind of results we get with the film in place.  So far however, I fail to understand why all these people are making comments that can’t be proved. 

 

I spent the weekend playing around with my latest creation but so far have not been very content with the findings.  The first thing to note is the design.  I’ve copied exactly what was described in the link containing the plate design.  I have tried a couple different types of material (all plastic) for the spacers between each plate.  I’ve confirmed in each test that I had no conductivity before the test began.

I’m using 1% Water/HKO mixture which is the bottom end of that described on the page.  I have 2L of H2O in my container.  The result?  Well its extremely hot!  It pulls so many amps that my amp meter kicks off and it sparks on the electrodes like you’d expect if you shorted the battery out.  In fact, for all practical purposes it acts just like the battery is shorted.

It is creating H2 but I can’t keep it running more than a few seconds without total melt down.  Another strange symptom is that once removed from the solution I still has conductivity even 30 minutes later.  Its like the solution is slime and has coated the entire device and no matter where I place it afterwards, it continues to work.

Here are a few more videos of the latest couple tests but I’m still working hard to see what is happening here.  So far I am not coming close to duplicating the results noted on the website in which I located this design.  Here is the website again:  http://waterpoweredcar.com/hydrobooster.html

Test 14: This test shows the new device sitting in plain tap water.  I then add 2.4ml of HKO to the water which is nothing compared to the other tests I’ve run.  The plates definately conduct much better than any of my earlier tests which allows for less HKO than before.  I still can’t believe how little I added and what the difference was.

Test 15: Detail of the actual device construction…  This test is with the new plate design placed in a 4L bucket of water in order to visually see what is going on.  There is a dark murky substance that forms on top of the water and we haven’t yet reached the point where we have our white powder substance forming on the plates.  We still have a lot of bubbles sticking to the plates and cutting down on the amount of electricity able to split the water molecules.

 

I’ve run across another technique provided by Stanley Myers for Hydrogen generators in the past, however I skipped over it because I had read the guy was scamming people and that he died and took all his notes with him into the after life.  Together it smelled of scam from the very beginning.

After more studying I’ve come across his information again, but it sounds more interesting to me second go.  I’m currently in the process of building the pulsating DC circuit that he calls for in his patents and that others seem to have built to see if it really makes any difference at all.  One major difference is that its suppose to break the bonds in tap water instead of needing an electrolite.

I’ll post more as I progress but for now here are a few links that you can use to see what I’m looking at…

http://www.icubenetwork.com/files/watercar/non-commercial/stanley_meyer/videos/

Clicking on the second video is the first portion of the interview but will give you an idea of how well this device works.  Unless its yet another hoax…

 

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